MOUNT NYIRANGONGO
In east-central Africa's Virunga Mountains sits Mount Nyiragongo, an active volcano. It is located close to the Rwandan border in the volcano section of the Democratic Republic of the Congo's Virunga National Park. About 12 miles (19 kilometres) to the south is the sizable city of Goma, which is home to about 600,000.
Being a stratovolcano, Nyiragongo features a crater at its summit and a cone-like appearance. Its elevation is 11,385 feet (3,470 meters). Its main crater is 820 feet (250 meters) deep and 1.3 miles (2 km) broad. The largest and most active lava lake in the world is located inside the crater. One of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world is Nyiragongo. Its catastrophic eruptions are well-known. The fissures, or fractures, that encircle the volcano are typically where the eruptions originate. Lava flows like water because it is so fluid. Mount Nyamulagira is a shield volcano located around 9 miles (15 kilometres) northwest of Nyiragongo. The two most active volcanoes in Africa are Nyamulagira and Nyiragongo. Although Nyamulagira erupts every few years, it is not nearly as lethal as Nyiragongo.
Eruptions
The lava lake started to empty via cracks on the volcano's north and south faces after an eruption in January 1977. The lava flows travelled at a speed of roughly 37 miles per hour (60 km). The lava lake had emptied entirely in an hour. Early in the morning, the swift-moving floods passed through neighbouring settlements. People were murdered, and many homes were destroyed. The precise figures are unknown.
In 2002, there was another significant eruption. Around Nyiragongo, a vast network of fissures started to form on January 17. Lava poured from the cracks as they widened. Goma was split into three halves by two lava flows that passed through it. One of the floods proceeded into one of East Africa's great lakes, Lake Kivu. Many fires were started by the lava flows, adding to the air's concentration of ash, dust, and gases. About 200 people died as a result of the earthquakes, fires, and air pollution. The number of persons who had to evacuate their houses was at least 300,000.
In May 2021, Nyiragongo erupted once more. Lava poured out of cracks. The majority of people in Goma were left without access to clean water as some lava spilt into the city's main water source. Not far from the city, the lava flow ceased. Significant earthquake activity brought on by the eruption also displaced hundreds of thousands of people. In addition to destroying over 3,600 homes, 12 schools, and three medical facilities, the eruption claimed the lives of at least 31 people.
"What is Nyiragongo trying to say?" My guide's matter-of-fact response to my question was, "Mountain of Fire."
The volcano is appropriately titled because it is home to the world's largest active lava lake. The main attraction for many travellers is the opportunity to see this flaming furnace, which is what drew me to the area. Nyiragongo and the other volcanoes are a mixed blessing for the local population, despite being a popular tourist destination. They bring wealth as well as destruction.
The population density can be attributed to the rich and productive volcanic soil. Conversely, they cause destruction. 120,000 people were left homeless after Nyiragongo's lava flows in January 2002 destroyed almost 20% of the neighbouring town of Goma and infiltrated settlements. The town was evacuated, but fortunately the invading flows were sluggish, and only about 40 people were directly harmed by the eruption.
Nyiragongo alone released more sulphur between November 2002 and November 2004 than all the other volcanoes combined. This had a significant effect on the ecology because acidic gases destroyed the plants within four km of the crater.
Both the volcano and the surrounding area have remained stable in more recent times. The region is finally available to tourists after years of conflict, but they must always be escorted by an armed ranger. The ability to move on with their lives is crucial for the local population.
It is evident that there is a lot of promise here as you drive to the beginning of the ascent. The countryside has an underlying beauty. A vestigial crown may be seen in the distance against the clear lines and blue silhouettes of rounded hills devoid of foliage. Rich like dark chocolate is the earth. A riot of vegetation everywhere. There are tonnes of neat plots. There are banana trees everywhere.
With one arm supporting their weight like the handle of a teapot, women stroll gracefully beside the road. On their backs are infants. Young girls find it difficult to handle yellow water containers. Along rutted dirt roads, motorcycles carrying multiple passenger’s bounce. Kids use improvised balls made of knotted plastic to play football.
The bush is singing. There is blaring music. The clamour of sound is enhanced by horns.
The skeleton of the dwellings is made of bamboo and covered with mud. Although most of the houses are solid, others are swaying, and they are supported by wooden poles to avoid the inevitable. The site is surrounded by proud walls of volcanic rock. A sign of riches is a home with a corrugated iron roof and hardwood boards with painted edges.
In addition to the more bizarre, there are many stereotypical images. Two men, one with a bright orange balaclava and the other in a pink yellow leather jacket. Loads are transported on wooden bikes with rubber tires and wooden wheels. The DRC is not comparable; there is nothing uniform about it.
Nyiragongo climbing is no exception.
Its cone swells with white vapour. I swallow menacingly, not because of the fumes but because of the volcano itself. Nyiragongo, at 3,470 meters, appears to be far away. It is more about the steepness of the hills and the 1,400-meter ascent than it is about the short eight-kilometer journey to the peak.
The Lingala word for the Swahili "pole," Malembe, Malembe, is the key to climbing
Nyiragongo, our guide insists.
That's exactly what we do, beginning gently amid the forest's humidity. After leaving the forest, we come to a route of tiny volcanic rocks that break our ankles and then we reach real lava flows. We go by the vent where the 2002 eruption's lava lake drained. The sole evidence of a violent past is a harmless cloud of steam.
The foliage shifts as the trail starts to climb rapidly. My perspiration increases even though the temperature drops. My speed slows and my breathing becomes rapid. We arrive at the summit after a taxing six hours, plagued by the issue of whether it was worthwhile.
A crater of rising smoke and fog was formed by the volcano's rim's sharp edges. Nothing was visible to me. The lake was where? What was the depth? What was the size of the crater? Our guide, Charles, was aware of my dismay and reassured us that it will become evident.
I wasn't sure because I was exhausted and feeling cold. All I could think of was putting on additional clothes to protect myself from the stinging wind and descending a few meters to the safety of the simple cottages.
Fed and clothed, a literal, not only symbolic, red glow spread across the night sky. After the cloud dissipated, I hurried back to the edge of the crater. The magnitude of the two-kilometre crater in front of me caused me to gasp in amazement. However, what was really captivating was the image of the hot lava lake screaming and crashing. Magma seething away, sometimes splattering and frothing like a cauldron. Its red-orange surface is dotted with red lines, which appear to be boundaries on a constantly shifting map. I gazed and stared, transfixed. Nyiragongo has a catchy name.