WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT LAMU ISLAND?
Overview
Are you considering a trip to Kenya's Lamu Island?
One of my favorite destinations in East Africa is Lamu. Here are my main justifications for going right now, along with practical advice from my own travels to help you organize your trip.
Arriving at the UNESCO-designated island, which is only two hours away by flight from busy Nairobi, may make you feel as though you have traveled both to the edge of the planet and back in time. And that's only the start!
Parts of Lamu Island, especially Shela Village and the south coast, conjure a beach lover's heaven with their seemingly infinite stretch of golden sands and stylish choice of coral heritage guesthouses.
However, Lamu is much more than just a beach vacation spot in East Africa!
Lamu Town, also known as Old Town, is an incredibly atmospheric ancient Swahili hamlet at the center of this beautiful and mostly deserted island.
Get out of Zanzibar. Having been a major trading hub since the 14th century, Stone Town, Lamu Old Town, is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili village in all of East Africa.
This town of coral stone and timber, which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, portrays the significant Swahili trade center of ages ago with its extensive network of winding passageways.
Make sure to allow ample time to stroll through the old Old Town, taking in its captivating sights, shops, and galleries, conversing with the witty and perceptive locals, and taking in the several impressive mosques (there are over 40 of them on this tiny island!).
Old Town comes alive after dark as locals pour out of their houses to take in the beautiful evening on the Kenyan Coast. For a genuine taste of Lamu Island life, don't miss a walk around during this time of day.
Swahili Coastal Cuisine
Another great reason to visit Lamu is the diverse and fulfilling selection of dining and drinking alternatives.
Swahili food is unquestionably the best here, and you can usually never go wrong when you order the day's speciality from a busy neighborhood restaurant.
However, the island also has a number of great cafes and restaurants that serve Mediterranean, French, Italian, German, Swedish, Bosnian, and more cuisines!
There are also quiet, low-key areas of nightlife like rural Shela and historic Lamu. However, keep in mind that there aren't as many cafés and restaurants serving alcohol here as you could find elsewhere in Kenya because the area is primarily Muslim.
A few recommendations for locations to see while on Lamu Island are as follows:
Local Food (Swahili)
Don't miss these well-liked Swahili dishes and neighborhood favorites in Old Town:
Mangrove Restaurant (by the Museum Jetty) and Seafront Cafe (on the shore near Lamu Fort).
One of our particular favorites is Stop Over, which is located halfway to Shela along the Corniche Path.
Don't miss dinner or a drink at the Floating Restaurant, which is situated in the waterway between the hospital and the Museum Jetty, for something really different.
Foreign Foods
Check out the following if you're craving a little bit of home (or something a little more exotic, depending on where you're from):
Moonrise Restaurant (previously Lamu Beach Club) and Whispers Coffeeshop offer "Western" treats at the Lamu House Hotel.
Visit Aquarius (previously Umalila, near to Lamu House) for a blend of Swahili and Western culture.
Excellent international cuisine with a view can be found at Kijani Rooftop Restaurant in Shela Village, as well as the Peponi Hotel Restaurant, which serves great European and seafood specialties and has seats by the sea.
Remaining in a Coral Mansion in Swahili
Over the last ten years, Lamu Island has seen an increase in the number of first-rate places to stay, and many of the island's older guesthouses are still elegantly updating and improving their amenities for visitors.
Although there are many places to stay at almost every budget, many tourists come to Lamu in search of the traditional Lamu experience, which is provided by historic Swahili homes transformed into boutique guesthouses.
These guesthouses are frequently meticulously restored and preserved historic homes of the island's previous nobility, which were first built from coral blocks.
These are the best accommodations that we would suggest to our own family members and friends who are currently organizing a trip.
Historic Places to Stay | Our Favorites
Our Favorite Option Our top choice for a rebuilt coral castle in the historic center is the Lamu House Hotel, which faces the water in Lamu Old Town. Lamu House, which was once two Swahili houses, provides 10 luxurious rooms with a pool, a restaurant, and a coffee shop.
The Kijani Hotel in Shela Village, our Top Upmarket Pick, is a gorgeous coastal retreat made from three once-ruined homes. Kijani offers a fresh, home-cooked breakfast every morning, tropical gardens, and a swimming pool.
Mid-Scale Historic Accommodations
The governor selected by the Sultan of Zanzibar used to reside at the stunning coral stone Subira House in Old Town, which is located behind Lamu Fort. This is one of our favorite places to stay in Lamu because of its 200-year history and home comforts.
Modern Guesthouses | Our Top Picks
Our Choice in the Mid-Range Shela Village's Jua House is a reliable, historically furnished hotel with contemporary conveniences. We believe it offers some of Lamu Island's greatest value for the money.
Our Wellness Selection
Check out Banana House & Wellness Center in Shela Village if you're searching for a tranquil wellness retreat. See the stunning and recently refurbished Fatuma's Tower in Shela as well.
Our Budget Choice
You won't find a better deal than JamboHouse if you're searching for reasonably priced lodging in the center of Old Town. features a roof terrace, communal bathrooms, and en suite (self-contained) bathrooms.
The Best Choices on the Isolated Western Shore
Hire a dhow and travel west, west, and west for another 1.5 hours to reach Kizingo, which is the southwest point, and Kipungani, which is a little farther north along the beach, if you truly want to escape everything. Visit Kipungani Explorer, The Cabanas (upscale lodging), and Kizingo.
The Sea Path along the Corniche
The Corniche Path is a seaside promenade that runs 5 km (3.1 miles) south from the northern end of Old Town to Shela Village on Lamu Island's east coast.
There is a more straightforward inland way that I was told by a local resident if you want to go to Shela. However, having followed both routes, I heartily endorse the Corniche Path.
The Corniche Path is much more enjoyable (shaded with a sea breeze!), although it may take a little longer. The nicest part is that there is absolutely no risk of getting lost in the heat of the day.
As far as you want to go, the views across the river make the walk to Shela worthwhile, even if you don't intend to go there.
Boho-Chic Village in Shela
You should think about traveling to other areas of this intriguing island, even if visiting Old Town's winding and tiny streets is an enjoyable and educational history lesson.
In contrast, Shela Village offers both a beach and beachside eateries, something that the ancient and charming Old Town does not have.
If you enjoy a little luxury and are prepared to spend a little bit more for it, Shela, which spans the southeast corner of the island, might be regarded as a tiny piece of island paradise.
Unlike its historic neighbor to the north, Shela is a peaceful bohemian-chic enclave with a distinct artsy vibe.
Explore the many art studios and galleries, enjoy a refreshing drink while taking in the sea scenery, or go beach bumming in Shela Village (see our comprehensive, first-hand guide to staying in Shela Village for more information).
The village has a modest but functional beach that's perfect for a leisurely walk or a brief swim. If you want the genuine thing, however, you only need to walk 10 to 15 minutes south/east out of town to reach 16 kilometers of pristine, mostly untouched golden sand beaches.
Lamu’s Epic Golden Beaches
Although Shela has a lovely tiny beach in the village, if you want to spend a lot of time at the beach, head south to the amazing coastal hotel (yes, a hotel!) called The Fort of Shela (more on that in the following section).
You won't see anyone or anything for hours if you go along the beach past Shela. There aren't many services and amenities available here, so pack your own food, water, and sunscreen.
Hire a dhow to transport you to Kizingo, the island's far southwest tip, if you're eager to get off the grid and escape the stresses of the modern world.
Running north along Lamu's rocky and immaculate west coast are a few basic but great lodging options. What about the beaches? Stunningly beautiful.
Historic landmarks and points of interest
On the island and beyond, there are a number of historical sites and museums worth seeing.
Lamu has been permanently impacted by Arabs, Persians, Portuguese, Chinese, Germans, British, and Bantu Africans, as seen by the island's architecture and culture.
With more than 40 mosques on the tiny island and around a dozen in the town center, the main religion is predominantly Muslim. During prayer time, the different muezzins all shout over the loudspeakers at once, sometimes even at four in the morning, creating a situation akin to a "Battle of the Mosques."
Your short list should include the following points of interest:
Waterfront in Lamu
The Old Town shoreline, especially the section of the Corniche Path immediately north and south of the Museum Jetty, hasn't changed much in the last century. During a leisurely sunrise/sunset stroll, this is one of the greatest sites to get a sense of what this trading town could have been like in its heyday.
Fort Lamu
Since it was built in the early 1800s, Lamu Fort has been a focal point of Lamu daily life. The Sultan of Oman established his dominance in East Africa here, which significantly raised Lamu's stature before it finally began to wane once the Sultan moved to Zanzibar. The Fort, which is now a museum and cultural display space, was used as a jail for a large portion of the 20th century.
Mosque of Riyadha
The Riyadha Mosque, which dates back to 1900, is one of the most well-known in the city because of its prestigious Center for Islamic Studies and because it hosts the annual Maulidi Festival, where pilgrims from all over East Africa gather to participate in prayers, donkey races, and dhow sailing competitions.
Sanctuary for Lamu Donkeys
Lamu Island is home to up to 6,000 donkeys, according to some estimates. However, there weren't many facilities available on the island until recently to take care of the health and welfare of Lamu's cherished workhorses—or work-donkeys, as they are more well known. That changed in 1987 when the Donkey Sanctuary opened, offering the island's donkeys free medical care.
The Shela Fort
The massive garrison-like structure built on the point at the water line just south of Shela Village may well be mistaken for a medieval Omani fortress. However, the striking Fort of Shela was really designed by an Italian aristocrat and is a considerably more modern building (from around 2001). After he passed away, his wife converted their amazing house into an opulent hotel.
Off-Island Experiences
Two-day journeys to nearby islands are worth considering if you're itching to learn more about the region's fascinating past.
The intact remnants of a Swahili village that was established in the early 16th century and abandoned around 1700 can be discovered at the Takwa Ruins on nearby Manda Island.
Exploring a few mostly preserved buildings, especially the Great Mosque and Pillar Tomb, makes the site worthwhile. The boat ride from Lamu Old Town to the ruins usually takes around half an hour.
The striking remnants of Siyu Fort, a coral stone fortification built by locals rather than outsiders in the 14th century, may be found farther away on Pate Island. In and near Siyu Village, there are several other intriguing ruins that are worth seeing.
A Parade of Donkeys at "Rush Hour"
Even if there aren't any automobiles on Lamu Island, you could still occasionally get caught in a traffic congestion!
As you might think, traffic can get a little backed up during peak hours due to the island's roughly 6,000 donkeys.
I've occasionally been caught snuggling up against a centuries-old coral stone wall in a small corridor while out for a midday walk so that a group of donkeys hauling lumber, sand, or whatever else you can think of can pass without any problems.
You might come across a fair amount of donkey manure when exploring Lamu because of this natural mode of transportation (an feature of visiting the island that has more than its fair share of critics).
Hey, it's all a part of Lamu's magic. You genuinely get the impression that you've been taken back in time and space by 500 years.
Involving Local People
I was hesitant to lower my defenses in Lamu after running across several hostile hustlers and touts in Nairobi and other Kenya Coast locations.
The majority of people on the island were very courteous, helpful, and far less pushy than those in other parts of the nation, which surprised me.
Naturally, as a visitor anyplace, you should exercise common sense while maintaining a healthy dose of skepticism about the intentions of others, especially if you're going alone or exploring after dark.
Having said that, I discovered Lamu's people to be hospitable and willing to share their amazing island and fascinating past with tourists.
Arriving and departing from Manda Airport
From other places along the Kenyan coast, the land trip to Lamu is a protracted, difficult, and uncertain one.
Flying is by far the best method to get here.
Taking the bus from Malindi to Lamu and then flying back to Nairobi was my route. Looking back, I wish I had taken the plane for both parts of the trip to save a ton of time.
The island of Lamu itself does not have a commercial airport. You will still need to board a boat for the final part of your journey whether you arrive here by air or land.
Nonetheless, the Manda Airstrip on nearby Manda Island is essentially visible from the waterfront of Lamu Old Town, allowing for a quick boat ride over the shallow channel.
The experience of arriving and departing from the rustic Manda Airstrip is unique. And the aerial views of old Stone Town and the surrounding area on a clear day are worth the airfare in and of itself!
Amazing Sunrises in Swahili
The Kenya Coast offers breathtaking sunrises for a large portion of the year, therefore it pays to be an early riser.
However, there's something really unique about Lamu sunrises that, in my perspective, sets them apart.
See an old port town that has been humming with bustle for centuries by heading down to the Corniche Path at dawn.
Since Lamu Island lacks a deepwater port, all supplies and cargo headed for Lamu Town must be manually unloaded at the main jetty. on search of the day's catch, fishermen navigate the channel on historic dhows.
This is a highly worthwhile activity that takes place in the early morning hours.
Other Things to Consider Before Traveling to Lamu
What makes Lamu Island unique?
Lamu Island is still largely unknown to tourists, although Zanzibar Stone Town is well-known worldwide. The fact that Lamu Old Town is older and better kept than Stone Town, providing a more genuine and evocative experience, surprises many first-time visitors to East Africa.
Which nation does Lamu belong to?
About 300 kilometers up the coast from Mombasa, on Lamu Island in Kenya, sits the historic Swahili community known as Lamu Old Town.
Is a trip to Lamu worthwhile?
If you are interested in Zanzibar's history and culture but are searching for a less crowded, more genuine, and better-preserved destination, we believe Lamu, Kenya, is well worth the trip.
Concluding remarks
My initial goal for my 2011 trip to the Kenya Coast was to only see Mombasa and Malindi, with a brief stop in Kilifi.
That was prior to a buddy from Nairobi suggesting that I include Lamu Island on my schedule.
I am eternally thankful for the detour, as I almost bypassed Lamu but changed my mind at the last minute.
Since then, I've also traveled to Mozambique Island and Zanzibar Stone Town, both of which are UNESCO sites with a similar past.
However, Lamu is still the most intriguing and atmospheric of the group, at least in my opinion.
Lamu, Kenya is unquestionably worth a visit for all the reasons mentioned above (and many more), especially for tourists who want to venture off the usual tourist route and simultaneously experience something unusual, historic, and breathtaking.
If you're like us, you'll be enthralled with everything the island has to offer the adventurous tourist, and you might even decide to stay longer (or come back again and again).